Shandur Polo Festival | A Guide

Exploring Shandur Polo Festival at the World’s Highest Polo Ground

Sher Ilyas
10 min readApr 21, 2024
Shandur Polo Festival
Shandur Polo Festival

I often write on diverse topics and receive enormous commendation. But I believe there’s something very special and touching about sharing firsthand experiences, especially when they’re about hidden gems unknown to the outside world. Today, I’m writing on one such topic — the highly acclaimed and world-famous Shandur Polo Festival played at the highest polo ground on Earth — and I am sure that it will captivate nature-lovers and polo enthusiasts alike.

So, let’s explore the breathtaking magic of the Shandur Polo Festival…

To begin with, Shandur, situated in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan, is the highest polo ground in the world, nestled amidst the majestic peaks of the Hindu Kush and Karakoram ranges. Here, at an altitude of over 12,000 feet, teams from Gilgit Baltistan and Chitral gather each year, usually from July 7 to 9th every year, to compete in a tournament that is as much about camaraderie and culture as it is about sport.

Polo, often dubbed the “Sport of Kings,” and “King of Sports” has a rich history that stretches back centuries. Originating in ancient Persia, it has since spread across the globe, captivating audiences with its blend of athleticism, strategy, and tradition. In Pakistan, polo holds a special place in the hearts of many, especially in the northern regions where it has been played for generations. One of the most celebrated events in the polo calendar is the Shandur Polo Festival, an annual extravaganza that takes place at the breathtaking Shandur Top.

The Background & Cultural Significance of Shandur Polo Festival

To understand the significance of the Shandur Polo Festival, one must delve into the rich cultural tapestry of the region. Northern Pakistan, with its rugged terrain and diverse ethnic communities, has long been a melting pot of traditions and customs. Here, polo is not merely a pastime but a deeply ingrained aspect of local heritage.

Polo’s origins in the region can be traced back centuries, to the time when the valleys of Gilgit-Baltistan were part of the ancient Silk Road. There are various accounts of how polo started in the region and who started it. One of the accounts is that traders and travelers passing through these mountainous lands brought with them the game of polo, which soon found favor among the locals. Particularly during the British era, it found its boom in the region, and it was they who introduced it at Shandur in 1936 at the Mas Junali (A Khowar word meaning moon ground). It was the teams from the immediate neighborhood of the Shandur pass, from Koh-e-Ghizer and Sor Laspur who took part in the early days. However, later it was extended to other teams from the whole of GB and Chitral. Since then, the festival has evolved into a cultural extravaganza, attracting not only polo enthusiasts but also tourists from around the world. Over time, polo became more than just a sport; it became a symbol of prestige and prowess, with rival teams representing their villages and valleys in spirited matches.

Participating in the festival is not just about winning; it’s about upholding a tradition that has been passed down through generations. For the communities of Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral, polo is a way of life, a link to their ancestors, and a source of pride. It is a testament to their resilience and perseverance in the face of adversity, a reminder that even in the harshest of environments, the human spirit can thrive.

As the festival approaches each year, anticipation builds in the valleys and villages surrounding Shandur Top. Teams begin their preparations, practicing diligently and selecting their finest players. Spectators eagerly await the chance to witness the action firsthand, to cheer on their favorite teams and soak in the electric atmosphere of the tournament.

Location and Setting

The Shandur Polo Festival is not just about the sport; it’s also about the stunning natural surroundings that serve as its backdrop. Shandur Top, perched at an altitude of over 12,000 feet, offers a panoramic view of some of the world’s tallest peaks, including Nanga Parbat and Tirich Mir. This breathtaking setting is what sets the festival apart and makes it a must-visit for travelers seeking adventure and beauty.

Description of Shandur Polo Ground

Shandur Top is a high plateau located in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan, straddling the border between the districts of Ghizer and Chitral. It is accessible via a rugged mountain road, now the Gilgit-Chitral Expressway, that winds its way through steep valleys and across rushing rivers. The journey to Shandur Top is an adventure in itself, with breathtaking vistas at every turn.

At the top of the plateau lies the polo ground, a sprawling expanse of green surrounded by snow-capped peaks and an endlessly stretched lake in the background. The Shandur Polo ground is a natural wonder, with raised plateaus on both sides providing unique vantage points for spectators. On the Chitral side, the plateaus serve as natural seating areas, while on the Gilgit side, stairs lead to a podium and guest room at the top. The ground itself is lower, allowing for a perfect view of the intense polo matches. Spectators and players enter from open spaces at either end, where goalposts stand wrapped in white and red fabric, with a red flag atop, marking the excitement of the game. Despite its remote location, the polo ground sees thousands of visitors during the festival, all eager to witness the action and soak in the atmosphere.

Geographical Features

The geography of Shandur Top is as diverse as it is spectacular. From the rugged mountains to the lush valleys, this region is a study of contrasts. The surrounding peaks provide a dramatic backdrop for the polo matches, while the nearby lakes and streams offer opportunities for fishing and boating.

The climate at Shandur Top is another defining feature of the area. Due to its high altitude, temperatures can drop below freezing, even in the height of summer. Visitors are advised to come prepared with warm clothing and sturdy footwear to withstand the chilly nights and occasional snowfall.

Accessibility and Transportation

Reaching Shandur Top is no easy feat, but for those willing to make the journey, the rewards are well worth it. The nearest major cities are Gilgit and Chitral, both of which are several hours away by road. From there, visitors can hire jeeps or travel in local buses to reach the festival site.

During the festival itself, local transporters, quite limited in number ferry the spectators to and from Shandur Top. These services can be a lifeline for those without their own transportation, ensuring that everyone has the opportunity to experience the magic of the polo matches and festivities. As the sun sets over the mountains and the polo ground comes alive with a phantasmagoria of colors and chatter, it’s easy to see why Shandur Top holds such a special place in the hearts of those who visit.

History and Evolution of Shandur Polo Festival

The origins of the Shandur Polo Festival can be traced back to the early 20th century when British colonial administrators sought to foster goodwill and cooperation between the tribes of Gilgit and Chitral. Recognizing the shared love of polo among the locals, they organized a tournament at Shandur Top, inviting teams from both regions to participate.

The inaugural festival was held in 1936 and was an instant success. Spectators from far and wide flocked to Shandur Top to witness the matches, which were played with a fervor and intensity that belied the event’s friendly origins. From that point on, the festival became an annual tradition, eagerly anticipated by players and spectators alike.

Evolution of the Event

Over the years, the Shandur Polo Festival has grown in both size and scope. What began as a simple tournament between local teams of Koh-e-Ghizer and Sor Laspur has evolved into a week-long extravaganza featuring cultural performances, handicraft stalls, and outdoor activities.

The festival has also become more inclusive, with teams from all over Pakistan and beyond competing for the coveted trophy. Players come from as far away as Karachi and Lahore to test their skills on the world’s highest polo ground, adding to the festival’s cosmopolitan atmosphere.

Despite its growing popularity, the Shandur Polo Festival has managed to retain its grassroots charm. Matches are still played with the same passion and intensity as they were in the early days, and spectators can still mingle freely with the players and organizers.

Key Historical Moments

Over the years, the Shandur Polo Festival has been the site of many memorable moments and legendary matches. From nail-biting finishes to dramatic upsets, the tournament has seen it all.

One of the most historical moments was the visit of the then Prime Minister — Benazir Bhutto in 1989 who set the precedent for later Premiers to join this one-in-a-year event and eventually, it became a famous calendar event. Pervez Musharaf had a special interest in it and has very fond memories of dancing with the locals at the culmination ceremony of the festival in 2006.

Another memorable moment came in 2005 when the festival was canceled due to security concerns in the region. Despite the setback, organizers were determined to keep the spirit of the festival alive, and the following year saw an even larger turnout as people came from all over Pakistan to show their support.

Festivities and Activities at Shandur Polo Festival

The Shandur Polo Festival is not just about polo; it’s a celebration of culture, camaraderie, and community. Throughout the week-long event, visitors are treated to a variety of festivities and activities that showcase the rich heritage of the region.

Polo Matches

At the heart of the festival are the polo matches themselves. Played with a fervor and intensity unique to the region, these matches attract players and spectators from all over Pakistan and beyond. Teams from Gilgit, Chitral, and other nearby valleys compete for the coveted trophy. Majorly, a total of four teams — A, B, C and D — from Chitral and Gilgit Baltistan play in the reverse order of their naming.

The rules of Shandur polo are those of free-style polo, with teams of six players each competing to score goals using a wooden ball and long-handled mallets. However, the altitude and rugged terrain add an extra level of challenge, testing the skill and endurance of the players and the horses as well.

Freestyle Polo & Its Dynamic

Unlike the internationally recognized version, it is more of a rules-less polo. Contrary to standard polo, which adheres to a strict set of rules, freestyle polo allows for more freedom and creativity in gameplay. In freestyle polo, players have the liberty to improvise and adapt their strategies without the constraints of traditional regulations. The main objective remains the same: to score goals by hitting the ball through the opponent’s goalposts using mallets. The team that scores the most goals within the agreed-upon time frame, which is 1 hour with 30-minute halves, is declared the winner. In the case of an equal number of goals by both teams, an extra 15-minute half is added. Even if the scores remain equal, the winner is declared through a toss. This unorthodox freestyle approach to polo results in a dynamic and unpredictable game, showcasing the players’ agility, skill, and innovation in adapting to the ever-changing conditions of the playing field.

Traditional Music and Dance Performances

In between matches, visitors are treated to performances of traditional music and dance. Local musicians play the flute, drum, and rabab, filling the air with the haunting melodies of the mountains. Dancers dressed in colorful costumes perform traditional folk dances, their movements reflecting the rhythms of the lands of both Gilgit Baltistan and Chitral.

These performances are more than just entertainment; they are a celebration of the rich cultural heritage of the region. Through music and dance, the people of Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral pay homage to their ancestors and keep alive traditions that have been passed down through generations.

Handicrafts and Local Cuisine

No festival in Pakistan especially Gilgit Baltistan would be complete without delicious food, and the Shandur Polo Festival is no exception. Stalls line around the polo ground, offering a tantalizing array of local delicacies, from half-spicy local biryanis and sizzling kebabs to hearty stews and local fruits. Visitors can sample traditional dishes such as home-baked cakes, chapshuro, a savory meat pie, or indulge in sweets like halwa, jalebi, and of course irresistible saline tea — a characteristic hot beverage of the Northern region of both Gilgit and Chitral.

In addition to food, the festival also features stalls selling handicrafts and souvenirs made by local artisans. Visitors can browse intricately woven carpets, handmade jewelry, and embroidered shawls, taking home a piece of the festival’s vibrant culture.

Camping and Outdoor Activities

For those looking to immerse themselves fully in the beauty of Shandur Top, camping is a popular option. Not only do tents dot the hillsides surrounding the polo ground, but you could also see them in 15 kilometers afar the polo ground. Since the areas, particularly on GB, Ghizer side, are vast natural spaces with trout abound so you could camp far away in a very still, cozy lap of nature while taking a ride of 15 to 20 minutes to the ground. It is a wanderlust that provides an unmatched experience under the stars.

During the day, visitors can explore the surrounding area on horseback or take a hike to the vast lake nearby. Fishing and boating are also popular activities, with the crystal-clear waters of the region teeming with trout and other freshwater fish.

Wrap Up

The Shandur Polo Festival, with its blend of athleticism, culture, and tradition, is truly the ultimate feast for both participants and spectators alike. This annual extravaganza not only showcases the thrilling sport of polo but also celebrates the rich cultural heritage of the Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral regions. As the highest polo ground in the world, Shandur Top provides a stunning backdrop for the festival’s festivities, offering panoramic views of the majestic peaks of the Hindu Kush and Karakoram ranges. Throughout its history, the festival has evolved from a simple tournament between local teams to a week-long celebration featuring traditional music and dance performances, handicraft stalls, and outdoor activities. The highlight of the festival is undoubtedly the polo matches themselves, which are played with a fervor and intensity unique to the region. In addition to standard polo matches, the festival also features freestyle polo, a rules-less variant that allows for greater creativity and innovation in gameplay. With its unparalleled beauty, vibrant culture, and thrilling sporting action, the Shandur Polo Festival is a testament to the resilience and spirit of the people of Gilgit-Baltistan and Chitral, and a must-visit for anyone seeking adventure and beauty in the heart of Pakistan’s northern mountains.

As a resident of the adjacent district, I’m here to help you experience the beauty of the Shandur Polo Festival. Whether you need advice on transportation, and accommodation, or want insider tips on the best places to visit, I’m here to make your trip unforgettable. Just hit me up!

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Sher Ilyas
Sher Ilyas

Written by Sher Ilyas

I channel my random thoughts & the pulse of the world into words, finding joy in the delicate balance between introspection & engagement with the cosmos.📞away!

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